We are now in Provence in the most beautiful village, on a hillside overlooking the provincial countryside and in the distance we can see the mountains of the Luberon. There was a moment during our drive from the Pyrenees that I didn't think we were going to make it. Victoria's (the car's GPS) estimate time of arrival just kept going up as at times we stood still on the autoroute. We had been warned about the horrible traffic jams in the south of France during summer and so it was. We left Bagneres-de-Bigorre at 9am and by the time we had reached Carcassonne, it had already taken an hour longer than we had managed to do the same journey a week before. In France most accommodation has a Saturday change over to eliminate odd empty days mid-week. This however causes every holidaymaker to be on the road on the same day. We had estimated the trip to take 6 hours and we took 9.5 hours. Thank goodness for air conditioning and the kids also were angels considering. At times the traffic would just stop for no apparent reason, then after crawling for km's start going again, most of the time it was a mystery. Now to bore you my best/worst traffic jam. We queued at a toll gate and while waiting I counted 20 gates. Now imagine 3 lanes of clogged traffic spreading out and finding one of the 20 gates, then paying half their holiday savings to go through to the other side, then have this sea of cars all try to filter back into 3 lanes of traffic. It was the most crazy scene I have ever seen. We must have sat there edging forward for about 30 minutes achieving the huge distance of 100 metres. Once we finally made it to Provence and I got first sight of Saint Saturnin Les Apt all was forgotten - I was in love. It is a beautiful provincial town that sits on the slope of a hill. On top of the hill is a ruined chateau and chapel. We arrived at about 6.30pm when most of the locals had moved outside to take advantage of the cool evening breeze that had come in. Some of them laughing at us as we drove past several times trying to find our holiday house, as Victoria attempted to direct us down one way streets the wrong way, and streets that were actually stairs (gotta love sat navs). We finally found our house and we had pretty much driven past it several times as it is only two doors from the main square. Joelle the manager of the gite greeted us and gave us a quick tour. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face. The 17th century town house has been renovated about a year ago and it is simply stunning and oozes character. Absolutely nothing is straight, not a single floor, wall, door or windows, and not one stair the same height. After climbing about three floors with a room off each half level you come to the top living area with a stunning view over the roof tops of the village and over the valley to the Luberon mountains. I am in heaven.
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